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Article 025: The Faces of Hagi Ware, and the Art of Mending

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Article Summary After walking beneath a canopy of early-blooming cherry trees along the waterfront in Hagi, Yamaguchi Prefecture, I found myself standing in a kiln workshop, lost in deliberation between two bowls for longer than I care to admit. A particular piece — one with a surface texture the Japanese call nezumi-hada , mouse-skin grey — still visits me in quiet moments. The longing it left behind became, unexpectedly, a lesson: that the sensibility alive in me right now is worth listening to. The yunomi on my shelf has changed over the course of a year, a third of its surface gradually surrendering to a soft wisteria blue, and I find myself marveling again at how Hagi ware chooses its own becoming. These days I repair chipped bowls with lacquer, learning to read each mend as a new landscape rather than a flaw — while continuing, with no small amount of stubbornness, to practice the art of kintsugi . Category Tableware Within Japan's long conversation with food and th...

Article 024: The Smell of Cut Grass, and Autumn Arriving at the Table

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Article Summary An account of a morning spent weeding the garden while waiting, patiently, for an overcast day. My results, compared to my wife's methodical progress, were considerably less tidy. Lunch that day was chikuwa tempura with aonori, and fresh-picked cucumber from the kitchen garden — a meal that made the tail end of a brutal summer feel, at last, like something passing. The essay also touches on a square Hagi-ware dish I found in the city of Hagi, in Yamaguchi Prefecture, and the quiet attachment I've developed toward it. Afterward, drinking tea while the lingering smell of battered fish and cool cucumber still hung in the room, I heard the first insects of the evening starting up beyond the window. Autumn was announcing itself, unhurried and certain. Category Cooking, Summer, Autumn I write about moments from Japanese food culture as they surface in the daily life I actually live. I hope you'll read what follows the way you might settle beside a banke...

Article 023: A Bowl Painted with Shepherd's Purse, and the Garden

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Summary The labor of a small garden, and the slow pleasure of waiting. A childhood sound — penny-penny grass spinning between fingers — returns through a bowl painted with shepherd's purse, made in Arita. A piece that traces the drift of seasons, the weight of a bowl in both hands, and the way a single word, heard at the right moment, pulls the past into the present. Category Cooking These are fragments from inside a life. I write them the way someone might tend a small fire — not to warm a crowd, but to keep something alive. 1. What the Garden Trees Take The rainy season has finally let up, if only for a few days. The cherry tomatoes have found their own arrangement with the garden trees — neither crowding the other out, for now. Come autumn, when the air sharpens, the annual digging will begin again. I think about it less with anticipation than with a kind of low-grade dread that has settled in over the years. A small garden that holds both trees and veget...

Article 022: What the Plum Knows

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Summary Salt and time are the only teachers that never explain themselves. This is a record of listening to them — through the weight of a stone, the smell of a morning jar, the three cups of tea drawn from a single plum. Category Cooking, Summer These are notes from a life lived close to the kitchen — written in the spirit of embers that warm without rushing. 1. Salting This article follows from Article 011: When Plum Scent Fills the Room . Umeboshi begins with salt. Five kilograms of plums. One kilogram of salt — twenty percent of the fruit's weight. This year I returned to the traditional ratio after weighing the risk of mold against the lure of something milder. In my kitchen, in my climate, this proportion holds. The weight of the pressing stone is never fixed. It shifts with the year's plums, with the humidity of the rainy season, with something I can only call accumulated instinct. It is the kind of knowledge that refuses to be written down neatly...

Article 021: Dreams and the Voice of Asparagus

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Article Summary Three years of tending before the first real harvest — and still, each spear pulled from the ground earns a quiet word of praise. A miso encountered by chance lodged itself so deep it returned in sleep. The cut of a cucumber, the precise amount of paste balanced on chopstick tips, a foam container replaced by ceramic — in these unremarkable decisions, something close to a personal philosophy quietly takes shape. Category Cooking, Summer These are moments I have lived inside Japanese food culture — set down here as they came to me. Read them, if you like, the way you might sit beside a low fire that has already passed its peak — warm, unhurried, needing nothing from you. 1. Next Year, the Asparagus Will Be Ready Cucumber with Hatcho miso Fresh chèvre and fish cake The north wind that cuts through the east side of the house has finally lost its edge. I am grateful for what wind takes with it — the dampness sitting in the soil. Perhaps because the...

Article 020: Sandals Carved in Kamakura-Bori

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Article Summary At a footwear shop in Fukuoka, where I had gone simply to replace a worn pair of geta, I met sandals bearing Kamakura-bori lacquerwork. Each stroke of the chisel without hesitation. The depth, neither too shallow nor too deep. The lacquer, laid down again and again with unhurried care——I was stopped, completely, by the evidence of a craftsman's hands. Inside the shop, time did not hurry. The owner's hands never paused. Something in the quality of that attention turned me back toward my own days. That night, drinking tea in the quiet, when the memory of that place returned, the noise I carry fell away a little. Category Handcrafts What I write here are single frames from a life lived in Japan. I hope they reach you in something like the feeling of sitting near embers——warmth that makes no demands. 1. What the Chisel Leaves Behind The teeth of my geta had finally worn past recovery. I had tried various remedies for the uneven wear, but the...

Article 019: Amida's Bowl, the Lines That Don't Show

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Summary A Hagi-ware bowl named Amida arrives with cracks already written into its skin. The writer, who has never once drawn the line he wanted, recognizes something in it. What changes is not the luck. What changes is where you put your eyes. Category Tableware I write from inside ordinary life with Japanese food and the things that hold it. Come as you would to a room where the lamp has been on for a while. 1. Amida Stoneware · Kofuku-chawan · Hagi Ware · (Nickname: Amida) Since I was a child, I have been someone luck walks past. Not dramatically. Just consistently. When I needed to miss, I hit. When I needed to hit, I missed. The Japanese game called amida-kuji — where vertical lines cross horizontal ones and the path you take is never the path you planned — was particularly unkind to me. I always arrived somewhere I hadn't intended. This continued into adult life. When neighbourhood committees needed someone willing but reluctant, the lot fell to m...

Article 018: The Garden, Voices of Eggplant and Radish

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Article Summary The pungency of radish that a tired body calls for after garden work. Days spent exploring the right "care" in scoring eggplant. The wisdom of adding iron to nukadoko, trial and error with iron kettles, time etched into Arita-yaki pottery bowls. Pausing at the threshold of the garden to listen to what the body says. Cherishing transformation—fermentation, rust, fading. Category Cooking I write here one scene from my life within Japanese food culture. I hope you might read this with the quiet feeling of sitting around embers. 1. The Bite of Grated Radish Simmered atsuage and eggplant with grated daikon Ikura tucked in kamaboko The weather finally turned mild, so I began tackling the garden cleanup I'd been putting off. Once I started, one thing led to another—more and more tasks caught my eye. I should have stopped, but I got carried away and kept going. By the time I was done, I'd moved too much. Today, I have no appetite...

Article 017: Time Held in Hands—An Oribe Katakuchi

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Article Summary An Oribe katakuchi I encountered in Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. A piece where accident—the fading of Oribe's signature color—became its own attraction. A vessel that sits close to daily life, as a water cooler (yuzamashi), as a small bowl. When I pour hot water, light rises from the bottom, and I watch until it reaches the right temperature, savoring that quiet interval. An expression that shifts with use, a rim shaped by the maker's accumulated knowing. A record of conversation with a vessel, spun from chance and time. Category Tableware I'm setting down one scene from Japanese food culture as I've lived it. I hope you'll read with the kind of ease you'd feel sitting around embers. 1. Water Cooler (yuzamashi) What I'm introducing here is an Oribe katakuchi I met in Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. Oribe ware comes from the Azuchi-Momoyama period, known for its particular coloring. A katakuchi is a traditiona...